Khan Tengri Expedition
Our Khan Tengri Expedition is to one of the most beautiful peaks in the world. The summit and sharp ridges form an almost perfect pyramid covered in snow and ice. During sunset the main summit often glows deep red due to the mountain consisting largely of marble. Khan Tengri’s name means “Lord of the Spirits” or “Lord of the Skies” in the Uighur and “Ruler of the Skies” in Turkic as the mountain was worshipped as a god in in the indigenous shamanistic culture.
The mountain is located on the border with China in the very remote Central Tian Shan.
Khan Tengri is the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan Range at 22,998 feet/7,010 meters. As the most northerly 7,000 meter peak in the world, this mountain can be subject to treacherous weather making it a potentially dangerous place to be under-equipped and ill-experienced. The northern latitude also makes the climbing season very short (mid-July to end of August).
Meet at airport, breakfast, drive to Karakol City (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way accommodation in hotel.
After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3,822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2,500 m).
Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4,100-4,200 m. Return to the camp.
After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4,000 m in confluence South Inylchek glacier with Zvezdochka glacier. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent. In the afternoon hiking to the foot of the Khan-Tengri peak (3-4 hours). Overnight in tents (4,300 m)
Start early in the morning. Hike up along the glacier to 5,300-5,400 m. Camp on the plateau under crosspiece. Overnight in tents.
Ascend to the Camp 3 (5,800 m). Camp is on the Crosspiece between Khan-Tengri Peak and Chapaev Peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Acclimatization day up to 6,200-6,400 m, descend to the Crosspiece. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Descend to BC.
In the afternoon ascend to the Camp 1 (4,300 m).
Ascend to the crosspiece. Camp (5,800 m).
Ascend up to Camp 4 (6,400 m). Overnight.
Summit day, then descend to 6,400 m or to the Crosspiece (5,800 m).
Descent to Base Camp.
Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr Camp. Rest and sauna.
Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at hotel
Transfer to Bishkek along the South side of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at guest house.
Transfer to the airport, fly home